Monday, March 24, 2008

Why Patagonia?



I have had to consider the question why work and fund conservation projects in South America and in particular Patagonia? I don’t think I knew exactly before we left last month. All I knew were from the pictures, the stories and our research that something big was there... We had to check it out... And it was there..

We do fund conservation work in the US at both major universities like Duke and Stanford, major environmental organizations like WCS and pro-fish organizations like Trout Unlimited. We are satisfied with these groups and their work. But there is a difference down in Patagonia and it is easy to see why. The US is the real leader in environmental stewardship on the planet. The state and federal agencies, fish and game departments, pro-fish NGOs, anti-fishing NGOs plus all the save the planet groups are fully engaged, the barganning tables crowded with every group wanting and getting in most cases a chair and a voice. And it does work in most cases... Well at least everybody gets a seat at the table. Once could speculate for US environmental policies there is another table that is by invitation only. Thats another post...

Patagonia - 800,000 square kilometers of land with 0.8 inhabitants per square kilometer. Three words come to mind - Vast... Untouched... Unmanaged... There is so much opportunity to help the few aware organizations, land owners, university professors and environmental groups protect their land. Consider this: There is not governmental agency with either the mission statement of staff to conduct or enforce environmental rules. Private fisheries research has been conducted on the Rio Grande since 1990, catch records are complete, privately-funded research conducted by well known US university groups and results are in the public domain and on the web for all to view. Yet the first major meeting between research team, land owner and the TDF agency responsible for environmental issues was suppose to take place just last week. Go figure that. makes me think of my favorite question... who cares?

There are both natural and man-made challenges in Patagonia. Population growth has spawned a major demand for more cheap electricity and this has sparked a major dam-building effort in Chile and Patagonia. Wild rivers like the Baker and Futaleufu are under seige by major European power companies teamed up with local governments to build theese dams and flood the river ecosystems. It is worse that the TVA or Corp of Engineers in the US. These are foreign private corporations with no accountability beyond their lobbyst’s bribe budget.

The continued effort for wealth extraction from the rivers, lakes and sea have spawned the $2B/yr Chilean salmon industry with numerous harmful impacts on the ecosystem. The real impact of that has been reported by WWF (see report) in great detail. But there is a more suttle impact creeping into the ecosystem. Escapees from the salmon pens have started to stage their own spawning runs up both pacific and Atlantic rivers. We heard from guides in Cholila, Chubut that salmon started showing up in the Corcovado River starting a few years ago. So what happens to the resident fishery going forward? What should be done if anything? What will be the effect of a major salmon spawning run in a few years? Who owns the salmon? Who can harvest them? They have already started farming rainbow trout on Lago Lemay right outside Bariloche - there are few regulations, no environmental impact assessment and a host of issues about them.

Meetings were held with several university professors at Universidad Nacional del Comahue in Bariloche, Rio Negro. Many of the faculty trained in the US and have active scientific programs, numerous graduate students and publish in international journals about their work in Patagonia. Unfortunately without a government agency or mission on fisheres conservation, there is no budget to fund any research. Research projects are based on what costs the least amount of funds rather than what is a pressing provincial issue.

We had lunch with Professor Pablo Vigliano in Bariloche to talk about the state of conservation in Patagonia. He gave us the summary from an soon to be published research publication that it is time for Patagonia to make some important decisions about how it manages its natural resources yet there is really no scientific data available on which to base any decisionmaking - no baselines, no informed provincial decision makers but rather a rapid period of economic development, subdivisions and resort properties in the area.

While MVF is concerned about conservation of river and ocean ecosystems on the planet not just in our back yard in Jackson Hole, the Chesapeake Bay or Bahamas. Following our venture capital roots to seek out projects with a significant return on investment of conservation progress, Patagonia is a prime place for us to work. We hope to have a plan in place in the next several months to prepare for the 2009 Argentina summer. That is January-April, 2009. More later as always.

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Ibera Marsh Video


I compiled a short video from our travels through the Ibera Marsh.   It is the one true wild place we visited during our travels.  Just South of Brazil and bordered by Paraguay and Uraguay,  the marsh is a 3 million acre wetland with no dry land, no homes, no people just its wild and wild self.  So see what you think. 

paste this link into your browser...

http://tommvf.googlepages.com/Pira2.mov

Thursday, March 20, 2008

What next?




I am back home in Jackson, WY working to document the expedition, places we visited, people we met and lay out an action plan for conservation projects in Patagonia.  The first step after unpacking and getting some sleep is inventorying the pictures and video.  We shot over 10,000 pictures and have over 12 hours of high definition video.  Gonna take some time to pull it all together and produce a summary video of the opportunity for conservation in Argentina.  I will try to update the blog with fresh pictures and video clips as soon as I can. 

At the same time we are moving forward on our two other major conservation projects.  The first one is the dolphin tagging program. We tagged over 300 fish in 2007 and are planning two expeditions in April and May to tag in the Bahamas.  Captain Steve and Captain Billy have been getting the Makara and Snafu ready to fish.  We are lining up tagging crews and will head out in a couple of weeks.

We also have a project working with the Henry's Fork Foundation starting in June in Idaho.  There is a major assessment of the fish habitat and ecosystem in the Caldera (see www.henrysfork.org for more information) and we are both helping fund the work as well as conducting our own research project there.  In the true fashion of a family foundation, MVF will enlist the support of its favorite sons McCain, Carson, Joe Jr and Ben to help in the research effort.  We will be onsite and broadcasting live from the banks of the Henry's Fork River in late June.  Stay tuned for more... Best to all. 



Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Back in USA....

Brandon and I flew back from Buenos Aires last night. I am still in DC awaiting a flight to Denver then home to snowy Jackson Hole. I was thinking last night about what did we really experience in Patagonia and the Marsh over the past three weeks. Big fish, wild winds, massive mountains... what I feel now is the passion of all those we met down there - from Noel at Pira, Pancho at Carrileufu, Barrett at Kau Tapen and Nick and his twin brother Alex at Irigoyen. There was never any hesitation, any second thought, any idea of something else. It was get up in the dark, put on your waders, get out on the river and encounter the day, whether it be blowing 35 mph or raining hard. We should all wake up and approach each day with the same enthusiasm. Do you do this? If not, then why?


I put up a slide show on google. See if you can view it and turn up the music until the speakers rattle....
http://tommvf.googlepages.com/Patagonia1m.mov

Sunday, March 16, 2008

Heading Home

This is our last night in Tierra Del Fuego. We were still on the Rio Irigoyen today. Tomorrow we have a 5 hr ride to the airport, fly to BA then home to the US tomorrow night. We have been here 22 days, traveled all over the country, visited 5 different ecosystems, met some amazing people and learned much about conservation in Argentina. I know we will be back next year to work here.

My Mac crashed but we saved all the pictures. Internet is via slow sat dish here so I will post more pictures and video once I get back to the US. We are coming home with a heightened sense of the need for conservation education and change in how we manage our rivers and oceans. I will try to cover the important messages in the next week.

The Fall rains started today here. Hope we can get the truck back the 100 km over dirt roads to the highway. More tomorrow from BA. Best to all.

Saturday, March 15, 2008

54 33.52 S 66 21.10W - End of the Road....




Rio Irigoyen, TDF

We left the Rio Grande this morning and traveled about 120 kilometers South to the Rio Irigoyen. We rode the bus down to the turnoff to Cabo San Pablo where Nico from the Irigoyen Lodge picked us up, then drove another 3 hours South along the TDF coast until the road ended. And I mean it just ended. TDF continues another 80 kilometers to its most Southeastern point but there are no roads, no access, no nothing. The end of South America.

Although we are staying right off the beach in a small house, there are no boats, no harbors, no marinas... just a few small streams that are the home of the world's largest sea run brown trout. There are still guanacos scattered around the fields and they seem to thrive here. Long ago the cattle and sheep ranchers killed off any large predators on the island of TDF so the guanacos are safe. We probably saw 100 of them on the drive here.

This is the fifth major ecosystem that we have encountered in Argentina. Unlike the vast rolling hills along the Rio Grande, here there is tundra that borders the ocean, vast kelp rafts along the beach and a tide that rises 26 feet twice a day. There are rolling hills, high bluffs that rise above the ocean, and thick forests bordering the tundra flats. We are here at the end of the summer. The first day of Fall is a week away. It is quiet, no wind, bright sun yet cool outside. We will hit the river and explore starting around 6pm tonight and stay out until about an hour after sunset. We travel in 6 wheeled amphibious vehicles. The tundra and bogs are almost impossible to travel by foot.

Nico and his twin brother Alex are our guides and built this place from scratch last year. The Rio Irigoyen is part of a massive estancia called Maria Luis and has been closed to all fishing for the last 6 years. Nico and his brother wanted to open up this place to just a few people for a few months a year to experience fishing for these sea run browns right at the mouth of the ocean. Our interest is in a conservation study to document a wild place like the Irigoyen and understand the human impact on such a place. More later. Best to all...

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Windy Day




Wind blew hard today and we just fished thru it. They measured the highest gust around 44 mph. Only a few fish caught. We caught and tagged 13 lb sea run brown, but not a lot of other fish caught. There is a big issue here with overfishing, even where it is all catch and release. I will go into some detail about this in another post.

We did meet with the researchers from University of Montana today who are doing the ecosystem study here. This is year 3 of the study and they have tagged over 6,000 fish plus taken scale samples for age and environmental conditions.

Pretty tired = 11pm and we got back about 20 minutes ago. Dinner is soon and I am gonna crash. More soon. Best to all.